Surface Blog

Trees vs. Solar Panels: A Green Dilemma

• Posted by
• Lindsay Barczuk

As green initiatives are implemented into our communities, I think we’ll see more and more unexpected contradictions. In this case, we are talking about the tree vs. the solar panel. The New York Times recently reported on an incident in California, in which one neighbor’s treasured redwoods block the direct sunlight from hitting another neighbor’s solar panels. The battle culminated in a courtroom and a judge ordered that the tree growing neighbors must ensure that no more than 10% of the panels are blocked - risking fines of $1000/day for infringement.

Not too long ago, I read about a similar issue in local Denver. Have any of you come across your own versions of this impending dilemma?

Posted on Apr 08, 2008 AT 06:06 AM in Green Building • (0) Comments

AIA-CEU and Carlisle

• Posted by
• Lindsay Barczuk

The AIA, American Institute of Architects, is a coalition of over 83,000 members - including licensed architects, designers, corporate sponsors, and government representatives.  The organization is multi-faceted; however one of the foremost initiatives is ongoing education.

For us, the opportunity to present is about getting the chance to educate key decision makers on the application of our products.  Currently, we offer three approved courses - each at 1.5 (CEU) Continuing Education Units and 1 Health, Safety, and Welfare (HSW) unit:

- Wide Plank Wood Floors Over Radiant Heat: Yes You Can!

- Antique Woods: Reclaiming the Past

- Building Green: One Plank at a Time

Are any of you architects interested in learning more about our AIA-CEU program?  For the rest of you, don’t you think it’s critical that our architects stay update on available products and applications?  What other seminar topics do you think we should consider covering?

Posted on Apr 08, 2008 AT 05:40 AM in (2) Comments

How to Install Wide Plank Wood Floors over Concrete

• Posted by
• Don Carlisle

Wood over concrete? Yes, it can be done! For the longest time, homeowners were warned that wide plank wood floors installed over concrete would result in moisture problems. But that’s not so anymore. A concrete sub-floor is no reason to deny yourself beautiful wood floors. Nowadays, they can go virtually anywhere.

It is true that wood is affected by climate change: wood fibers expand and contract with fluctuations in relative humidity. However, this movement and the resulting moisture problems can be controlled with proper installation techniques and the use of high quality wood products. If you’re going to be installing over concrete, it becomes even more critical that you understand what part of the tree the boards are cut from and the manner in which the boards were processed; both of these factors are vital to your overall satisfaction with the floor. Wood cut from the center of a tree contains a higher percentage of vertical grain, which makes it less susceptible to movement and thus a higher quality material.

Before you embark on this installation process, we recommend certain rules of thumb to manage moisture and ensure the stability of the wood:

1. Be sure the wood supplier has properly dried the wood. (We recommend 6-12 months of air drying followed by a period of kiln drying.)

2. Let the wood acclimate in the home or business for 7-10 days.

3. During acclimation in your home or business, keep relative humidity at 45 percent.

4. Make sure the wood flooring has proper stress reliefs (These ridges on the underside of the wood relieve tension in wood, reduces board movement, and provides
a greater glue surface).

There are two options for installation of wide plank wood floors. Both options are driven by the height allowance between the slab and door. To determine height, measure the distance from the top of slab to the bottom of the exterior door or measure the transition to other flooring surfaces. Check accuracy by swinging door completely in both directions.

Here are some step-by-step installation guidelines once you know the height allowance:

Option One: Gluing directly to concrete—1/2 to 3/4 inch height allowance

Using either Bostik’s Best or Sika adhesive product, spread one layer of adhesive onto the concrete per manufacturer’s instructions and place your Carlisle planks, milled to 1/2 to 3/4 inch thickness directly onto the adhesive. Allow 12 hours drying time before finishing your floors.

Option Two-A: Concrete slab with plywood sub-floor – 1 inch height allowance
Place a layer of 6mm polyethylene onto the concrete as your moisture barrier. Using a Hilti Direct fastening tool, shoot concrete nails into 1/2 inch plywood to apply directly onto concrete. Install Carlisle Wide Plank Floors, milled to 1/2 inch thickness by blind nailing and gluing.

Option Two-B: Concrete slab with plywood sub-floor – 1 1/2 inches or more height allowance
Lay down 3/4 inch plywood and then follow the directions above.

The cost associated with both options for installing wood over concrete is similar. However, due to the cost of the adhesives, it can be slightly cheaper to use the plywood method. It’s also possible to install Carlisle floors over concrete slabs with radiant heat. The installation process calls for using a floating plywood sub-floor. Proof that this method of installation has gained industry acceptance is its prevalence in high end commercial applications. For instance, the Park Hyatt Hotel in Washington, D.C., used Carlisle White Oak wide plank wood flooring over concrete in the public space of their main level. Given the resources for high quality wood, like Carlisle Wide Plank Floors, and the variety of mastic adhesives available today, you too can install wood floors over concrete in your home.

Posted on Apr 08, 2008 AT 03:38 AM in Home Building & Contracting • (2) Comments

Conflicting information about Hardwood floors… HELP!

• Posted by
• Don Carlisle

A few weeks ago while browsing the Garden Web forums, I came across a concern we hear from time to time regarding durability.

Posted by mamadadapaige

Hi,

Please help me get to the bottom of this…

We are renovating our house and putting in hardwood floors which will run continuously through several rooms, including the kitchen and butt up against some existing vertical grain fir floors.

I want something that will work harmoniously with the fir but be much more durable since this will be in the kitchen and since we have young kids in the house.

I would like to go with old growth Cherry from Carlisle (http://www.wideplankflooring.com/). They have assured me that because the cherry is old growth it will be hard enough to be durable in a kitchen. The architect (albeit a young architect) also assured me of the same thing (said that if it were cherry from anyone else he would say no, but that the Carlisle cherry is denser). The contractors are saying there is no way this is hard enough to be durable in a kitchen and are STRONGLY advising me against it.

I love the look of it and really want to go with it but I also trust the contractors and am afraid.

If we don’t do this, we will go with quartersawn white oak and deal with the fact that where the oak meets up with the fir the contrast is great (and probably not very pleasing to the eye). Unfortunately where they meet is very visible as you enter the house so not an ideal situation.

Anyone with specific experience with Carlisle Cherry floors?? or even if not, any advise for me?

thanks!!!

I’ve grown up with traditional wood floors as my parents loved them and made this there passion to bring to others to enjoy. Now I am carrying on the tradition and would love to help share some thoughts on your decision.

Its very interesting to me to see what others have said about your desire for Cherry flooring, good quality cherry will last for generations and there definitely are not any durability concerns. Pine flooring still remains in good condition in many of the Early American architecture and is a highly sought after and beautiful floor. Cherry is much harder and every bit as durable. If you aesthetically love the look of Cherry you shouldn’t change this direction. Cherry has been used in homes all over the country for a long time with fantastic results. Your children will add character to the cherry, the extent to which this happens will directly correlate to the finish that is used. I am a proponent for a softer finish that allows the normal aging process and doesn’t look like plastic plus maintains the beauty of the Cherry. There is no issue regarding the floors durability, yes you can use Ash or Oak but make your decision based on the look you want. The difference in the wear and durability will be negligible to you and both floors will be there for another generation to enjoy!

Don

Posted on Apr 07, 2008 AT 05:13 AM in Hardwood Flooring • (0) Comments

Reclaimed vs. Antique Wood

• Posted by
• Lindsay Barczuk

You may have noticed in our green literature that we refer to our products as "Antique Reclaimed", as opposed to using the words "antique" or "reclaimed" separately.  While many of us think the terms can be used interchangeably, there is actually a distinct difference between the two. 

Dictionary.com defines each word as:

Antique - any work of art, piece of furniture, decorative object, or the like, created or produced in a former period, or, according to U.S. customs laws, 100 years before date of purchase.

Reclaimed - Something brought into or returned to a suitable condition for use, as cultivation or habitation.

Just because something is reclaimed does not mean that it is antique

Think of a 20 year old basketball court: someone could salvage those boards and sell them as reclaimed but they are not considered antique.  This 20 year old floor could be FSC certified as "Post-Consumer Reclaimed" but it does not have nearly the charm of our Antique Reclaimed floors.

If you are shopping other "reclaimed" products, make sure to ask if they are also Antique - as it will add patina and allure to your home.

Posted on Apr 03, 2008 AT 04:14 AM in Hardwood Flooring • (0) Comments